Saturday, July 11, 2009
Rainy Day In Sao Paulo
It is easy to understand why all the best Brazilian race car drivers come from São Paulo after a day in the city. The drivers there dodge and weave and won´t give an inch. It is all complicated by the ´bike boys´- men on small motorbikes who deliver documents, food and just generally spend the time weaving in and out of the frantic traffic, pulling in front of cars that are going sixty miles an hour and sliding up in between rows of stalled traffic. Lindemberg says they are necessary to the econonomy, and also, they help by being frequent organ donors.
We had to cross the Tropic of Capricorn when we drove from Campinas to São Paulo - and there is actually a sign that marks the spot. We went first to Avenida Paulista -one of the major streets for business. It was very modern and would fit in with any big city. We walked around the MASP - the art museum of Sao Paulo which is a modern builing suspended in the air on four red columns, really a striking building.
It was starting to sprinkle rain, but Lindemberg assured us that it would be a light rain called "garoa" that is common this time of year. We entered the subway - again modern and much like those in Paris and London. The maps in the wall looked almost the same with the colored lines headed in different directions. Many of the stops are named for famous Brazilians.
We walked for a while after the subway and found the large city central market. It was remarkable - stalls with things hanging and piled everywhere. It was crowded but we managed to get a table and eat the traditional mortadela sandwhich. It had about three inches of a spiced ham interspersed with melted cheese on a crispy french roll. It was delicious but so filling that there was no room left for all the beautiful desserts that were on offer around the market.
Unfortunately, when we left the market, the "garoa" that Lindemberg promised us turned into a pelting rainstorm. Thank goodness for entrepreneurs. At the door of the market, a man was selling a 2 1/2 by 2 1/2 inch packet - for only $1.25. It was a clear plastic Brazilian raincoat which had a hood, and long sleeves and reached below the knees. Thus attractively garbed, we slogged off into the storm through packed streets, past the open air market that was very busy, past historical buildings to the monastery and church of St. Benedict. The monks have been there since the 1600s, and they bake very good bread to raise money. Of course, we bought some.
Back to the subway to the Catedral da Sé - the large cathedral in the exact center of São Paulo. It has a large dome like St. Peter´s and flying buttresses like Notre Dame - quite an amazing sight. Directly in front of the cathedral was a marker that indicated the exact center of São Paulo. Very beautiful despite the rain.
Back to the subway to the car with a brief stop at a chocolate shop for sustenance to help us manage the traffic - which was even worse on the way back - as it was Friday and the end of the workday.
Before we left the city, we drove by the city park which was enormous, with lakes and ponds and paths and trees. Very beautiful. It front of the park, there is an obelisk and an enormous sculpture that depicts the Bandeirantes - the early explorers who first went into the interior of the country.
Lindemberg gave us a nice sampling of Sao Paulo - the city that never sleeps- despite the rain. Tchau!
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